After the lights came up, I
went out and ate a cheeseburger, savoring every last bite. Those who’ve seen The
Menu will, I’m sure, understand the implications. Let’s just say that The
Menu is about fine dining, taken to a degree that’s absurd, even grotesque.
It’s a film that will not be to everyone’s taste, but connoisseurs will find it
strange, funny, and horrible. Which is why, on a recent evening, the prime
screening at my local multiplex was completely sold out. In an era when many
film lovers would rather stay home and watch Netflix, The Menu fills the
bill for highly original entertainment.
We all love to eat, and some
of us love to cook. Which is why many filmmakers have produced works that focus
on the cooking and eating of a meal. One of the earliest I remember is the
poignant Babette’s Feast (1987), in which a 19th century
French refugee thanks the Danish villagers who’ve taken her in by way of a
spectacular dinner. It took me a while to discover the Japanese Tampopo (1985) which approaches the preparation and
consumption of food in an affectionate but absurdist light. Director Ang Lee,
early in his career, made a 1994 Taiwanese film, Eat Drink Man Woman, in
which a veteran chef and his three daughters play out the challenges of their
daily lives by way of their weekly Sunday meals. Food-making substitutes for
love in Mexico’s 1992 Like Water for Chocolate, based on an acclaimed
novel. There are many more examples, but I’ll stop with Stanley Tucci’s Big
Night (1996), about the emotion that goes into the opening of a family-owned
restaurant.
In most of these movies, the
cooking and serving of food becomes a way of showing love. Which makes The
Menu a film with a difference. If revenge is a dish best served cold, the
chill here is palpable, but there’s some flaming emotion as well. Not that this
is obvious from the get-go, when a group of 12 beautiful people board a launch
that will take them to a tiny island for the meal of a lifetime. Their host is
fabled chef Julian Slowik (Ralph Fiennes), who introduces each exquisite dish
in loving detail, but also rules his open kitchen like a drill sergeant. Some
of the offerings are perversely humorous, like the bread plate that consists
solely of tiny dabs of oils and sauces, with no bread in sight. Other courses .
. . well, it wouldn’t be fair to say.
Part of what animates The
Menu, aside from a desire to tell a helluva good story, is a disdain for
the absurdities of today’s fine dining scene, in which small numbers of diners
pay exorbitant sums to feast on the rare and the exotic. Some of the targets of
the film’s very dark jokes are snobbish restaurant critics, roistering
investment bros, burned-out Hollywood celebrities (John Leguizamo at his
slimiest), elitist big-spenders, and foodies who live for moments of gustatory
bliss. Chef Slowik clearly resents all those who have elevated his culinary
reputation by luring him away from simple food, lovingly cooked. In the role,
Ralph Fiennes is a marvel as both genius and madman, capable of both utter
coldness and surprising warmth. His opposite number is the restaurant’s one
unexpected guest, played by Anya Taylor-Joy. Her unusual saucer-eyed beauty
seems to make her well-suited to parts in eerie projects like The Witch,
Last Night in Soho, and TV’s The Queen’s Gambit. In The Menu she
plays a gal who’s more than she seems, and her role here is, well, a whopper.
.