You’ve got to hand it to
Steve Martin. He’s game for anything, from outrageous interracial buffoonery (The
Jerk) to an update of Rostand’s 19th century classic, Cyrano
de Bergerac (Roxanne). He writes plays too, including a
sophisticated meditation on the meaning of genius, as seen in a confab between
Pablo Picasso and Albert Einstein (Picasso at the Lapin Agile). In
modern art circles, he’s known as a savvy collector and enthusiast. And, of
course, he’s been acclaimed for seriously championing the blue-grass banjo.
What works for Martin
on-camera (and on-stage) is the clash between his straight-arrow looks and the
visual insanity he can deliver. Sporting a well-tailored suit, and with his
grey locks neatly coiffed, he looks like a banker. That’s why it’s doubly funny
when, as in the priceless All of Me, he goes berserk, galloping madly
off in all directions. I love that film, as well as many others in Martin’s canon, but it took
COVID (and a recent steady diet of film noir) to induce me to see Dead
Men Don’t Wear Plaid. That 1982 film, which also involved the talents of
the late, great Carl Reiner, is a spoof of classic detective thrillers from the
good old days when men were men, women were dames, and movies were black &
white.
Reiner, Martin, and company
cleverly built their plot around interpolated footage from old thrillers,
finding a way to have Martin’s character converse (in tough-guy detective-eze)
with everyone from Bette Davis to Jimmy Cagney, from a panicky Barbara Stanwyck
(in a clip from Sorry, Wrong Number) to a woozy Ray Milland (The Lost
Weekend) to a stoic Burt Lancaster (The Killers). Walter Neff, the
leading character played by Fred MacMurray in Double Indemnity, turns
out to play a key role in Martin’s case, which involves the murder of a
prominent scientist and cheese-maker. And when Martin’s detective character
needs extra hands on the job, he calls in Philip Marlowe (Humphrey Bogart), who
provides him with tips over the telephone.
It’s a triumph of film editing, as well as a project
that calls on the talents of art directors and others who can bring off the
look of 1940s noir. In the case of costume design, the artistic team hit the
jackpot by hiring Edith Head, in what was to be her very last film. The
eight-time Oscar winner, who had become famous in 1937 for designing Dorothy
Lamour’s sarong, knew just how to outfit Martin and his femme-fatale client
(Rachel Ward) in clothes of the era, including a snappy fedora for him and a
wow of a picture-hat for her. After all, the 433 films on which Head is credited
include such Forties classics as The Lost Weekend, Sorry, Wrong
Number, and Double Indemnity.
I remember once, as a UCLA
grad student in the Young Library stacks, putting aside my research to
speed-read Head’s fascinating 1959 memoir, The Dress Doctor. It
describes her life in Hollywood, designing costumes for glamorous stars with
shaky egos. To make clear she was NOT competing with her famous clients, Head
smartly decided to play down her own appearance. That’s why she settled on a
distinctive but drab look: huge owlish glasses, prim suits, heavy bangs. Her
schoolmarmish choices for herself instantly made it clear: this lady meant
business. (I also learned from the book something it’s nice to keep in mind: no
celebrity, however gorgeous, is without figure flaws that must be camouflaged
by clever design.)
Today Edith Head is gone but
not forgotten. See Pixar’s The Incredibles, where pint-sized designer
Edna Mode is made in her image.
